The Serai Chikmagalur: A Luxury Weekend Getaway
Far from the din of city life, snuggled amidst coffee plantations is an oasis of tranquillity where the day starts and ends with coffee…
Whilst the Turkish interpretation of Serai is “a palace of the Sultan”, the Persian version speaks of comfortable, accommodating environs for intrepid travellers and battle-weary soldiers to rest and recuperate after their travels across inhospitable terrain.
Located at the foothills of the Mullayanagiri range {at 1926 metres above sea level, Mulayanagiri is the highest point in Karnataka}, The Serai Chikmagalur, set amidst 70 acres of coffee plantation is the perfect blend of both those definitions – A tranquil oasis of luxury and peace, to refresh mind and body; a well deserved respite from modern day travails, trials and tribulations! It is a fine example of seamlessly integrating luxury and fecundity of nature, each enhancing the other; a unique building typology that makes it a one-of-a-kind, world class resort!
Owned by Cafe Coffee Day Group, the resort goes by the tagline – “Inspired by Coffee”, and is one of a series of luxury resorts with the latest addition at Andaman Islands. Legend has it that over 400 years ago, Saint Baba Budan made an interesting and unique journey to pilgrimage Mecca and discovered coffee in the form of a dark and sweet liquid called Qahwa. He found the drink very refreshing so he secretly brought back a handful of coffee beans from Mocha in Yemen in the folds of his robe, as the Arabs were very protective about their coffee industry. He planted the beans on the hills of Chikmagalur in Karnataka. These hills are now called Baba Budan Hills and the vibrant lush green coffee plantation is now the home to India’s first and arguably best coffee.
On my arrival, I am welcomed by the waft of freshly brewed coffee, garlands of jasmine flowers and a sandalwood-tika. The staff then guides me to the sky lounge for welcome drinks – traditional filter coffee served in a brass mug, and cold coffee with ice-cream served in a champagne glass – and refreshments. The contemporary minimalist architecture & interiors blends effortlessly with the coffee estate. The exclusive pendants in the lobby and porch are of a special paper made of pressed seeds and leaves from the estates. Occupying the pride of place is a fabulous mural inspired by and reflecting the symmetry of nature. The central edifice that houses the reception, the restaurant, the bar, the spa and other facilities is fronted by an elegant vanishing edge pool with the villas laid out along an axis that blends with the hills on the horizon.
It is a long but beautiful walk to my villa and the pleasant weather makes it all the more refreshing. The Serai is an exquisite collage of strong, bold axial lines, a variety of materials and textures, interplay of levels, framing of picturesque views, connecting walkways and lighting harmonious with the exquisite landscape. With a total of 29 Villas – Estate Villa with Jacuzzi, Estate Villa with Pool, Estate Terrace, and The Residence – where each villa has been planned with utmost care incorporating some of the most modern amenities that is comparable with the best in the world, the Serai is designed as if the entire resort emanates from and is aligned to a central flowing water spine, which forms the genus and unifies the resort.
All villas are extravagantly furnished in a soothing palette of beige, cream and brown, and are laid out on the flanks of the central flowing water spine. The natural scenery has been seamlessly integrated with the design, giving it an open feel. To enhance the feeling of blending totally with the natural environs, most of the materials used for the interiors are indigenous to the plantations including the natural rosewood floor that adds to the charm and beauty of the carefully designed architecture. The bathing area is a natural extension of the bedroom. Surrounded by greenery, a glass wall blurs the boundary between Nature and the interiors.
The 20 Estate Villas with Pools offer one-level accommodation with sliding doors opening onto the outdoor area and pool. The four Estate Terraces offer two-tiered living with views of trees, ferns, plantations and paddy fields from the balcony. The four Estate Villas come with relaxing Jacuzzis to help guests unwind. A waterside walkway leads to the Residence, which offers a designer bedroom, separate living and dining areas and private pool.
My accommodation is called the “Private Pool Villa”. It has raised compound ensuring privacy, a swimming pool upto 4.5 ft deep and gazebo bed and reclining chairs.
Odyssey – The cuisines of the world restaurant
The restaurant, Odyssey, is set on a terrace that overlooks panoramic views of the plantation and greenery beyond, letting your taste buds paint an evocative picture of faraway places, fond memories and great company. While the décor and the unique, organic paper-shaded lamps make for a beautiful setting, the menu reflects the diversity of recipes, ingredients, seasonings and preparations that have made their way from every corner of the globe.
The people of this region believe that all happiness depends on a leisurely breakfast that’s fit for a king. So besides sipping on their indigenous coffee, the day begins with a power packed breakfast. Sampling local food is one of the best things about travel and devouring Malnad delicacies here is a treat for your taste buds.
The region receives very heavy rainfall, thus giving it the name ‘Malenadu’ meaning ‘The Land of the Rain’ in Kannada. The rural landscape is all lush farmlands, gently rolling hills and green forest land, making it a source for some of the most interesting ingredients and produce this region has to offer. Hence, The Serai Chikmagalur offers food that is just as pristine and refreshingly free of fads; where farm-to-table is more than just a trendy catchphrase.
Rick Bayless, renowned American chef and cookbook author, once said: ‘Great food, like all art, enhances and reflects a community’s vitality, growth and solidarity. Yet history bears witness that great cuisines spring only from healthy local agriculture.” Nowhere has this been truer than at The Serai Chikmagalur, thanks to the gracious involvement of the local women folk, conjuring up dishes that celebrate the roots, spirit and fundamental flavours of the region whilst maintaining a singular style.
Served on a banana leaf, Malnad delicacies are highly influenced by the culture and geography. I am served a multitude of dishes, ranging from the traditional Kudubu to Hurlisaru. I end my meal with gratitude by folding the banana leaf inwards, showing a sign of respect and gratefulness to the host, for the bounty I’ve received.
Activities
Bean to Cup – The Coffee Tour: For those, to whom coffee is the elixir of life, a visit to the Kudregundi estate located on the mountains of the Western Ghats is an experience you wouldn’t want to miss; the whole terrain is exploratory and requires a good pair of footwear before scaling these hills. You’ll get to experience a view that is absolutely stunning; and once amongst the plantation lend your ears to the call of birds and insects living in this vegetation.
Arabica, Robusta & many other spices are grown in abundance in these parts and secondary plants like orange, pepper, cardamom & vanilla are also grown along the coffee plantation to balance and support the ecosystem. A trip to the coffee museum showcases the history; beautifully narrating the origin of coffee. You’ll also be provided an insight into the entire process in the journey of the coffee from seed to cup – starting from harvesting the seeds, to processing and packaging. I was offered various blends and variety of coffee & tea to taste at their coffee lounge – Black coffee, Pomegranate dry fruits tea, Peppermint green tea, Camomile lemon honey tea and Blue Butterfly plee flower tea.
Soak in the Beauty – Nature Walks: You are bound to fall in love walking or biking around this beautiful property and witnessing first hand its splendid beauty. As you step out in the silence for a while, you’ll find the twittering of birds for company with the gentle breeze against your skin soothing your inner soul.
Rejuvenating Coffee – The Oma Spa Experience: With a unique blend of Indian and international treatments and approaches, all based on holistic and natural wellness, OMA – meaning ‘life giver’ in Sanskrit – is the place for physical, mental and spiritual rejuvenation. Rejuvenate your senses by opting for their signature therapy – Coffee Cure. A generous amount of grounded coffee is massaged and scrubbed from head to toe which leaves your body feeling relaxed – soothing any aching muscles.
View from the Skies – The Heli Tour: Take a tour of verdant Chikmagalur, and witness a bird’s eye view of the rolling hills and the lush vegetation carpeting the hill slopes! Get an overview, literally, of the plantations and estates, the coffee works, the history and culture of one of India’s most fertile and picturesque landscapes!
End note: With the weather just about perfect, The Serai Chikmagalur is an ideal destination to escape to a blissful solitude in the lap of nature and rejuvenate. A perfect retreat to soak in all the greenness, while away your time in your own private pool or Jacuzzi, grab a cup of home-grown coffee and settle down with a long pending book.
Photography: Vidhya Sakar
