Seduce Your Tastebuds at Vembanad – The Paul Bangalore
I recently revisited my perception of luxe when I visited The Paul Bangalore. Carefully conceived and designed to offer unlimited luxury to the discerning traveller, The Paul, located at the heart of the beautiful city of Bengaluru, presents unparalleled comfort and competitively high standards of service with the least intrusion into their guests’ privacy; an ambience that helps you weave the fondest memories of a stay that will be etched in your mind forever.
The thought of “God’s Own Country” Kerala creates a string of colourful images in my mind. Everything from the refreshing peacefulness of its backwaters to its delightful appams and stew ~ where seasonal vegetables simmered in a spiced coconut milk-based sauce paired with lacy-thin pancakes whipped out of fermented rice flour ~ vividly fills my senses! Now, imagine dining in a quiet restaurant done tastefully to replicate the traditional décor of Kerala, and savouring authentic Kerala cuisine served by staff in traditional Kerala attire. If you are craving a slice of Kerala in namma Bengaluru, then look no further than Vembanad, the speciality restaurant at The Paul Bangalore.
Vembanad, the kaayal, conjures up a host of beautiful images {with perhaps an apt audio accompanying these images} for anyone who has visited the place. Named after this beautiful water body, Vembanad at The Paul Bangalore specialises in southern seafood cuisine with a clear focus on Kerala’s epicurean delights.
I was welcomed into a dining space that featured a high ceiling of carved wood and wood-paneled walls that complemented the ceiling, with terracotta tiled floors bringing fluidity to the authentic Kerala décor. I was seated at a table with traditional table linen and an urli with floating flowers in the centre. An urli is a shallow bronze or earthen pot that is filled with water and is used to float flowers or candles in ~ unarguably one of my favourite features of Indian décor. But coming back to the restaurant and its décor, there was so much to admire. The beautiful brass diyas, intricately done wooden wall hangings, and melodious Carnatic music had a heady effect on me. And to top it all, the menu reflected the restaurant’s attempt to stay as close to traditional Kerala food as possible. Coastal food aficionados should definitely make a beeline for this restaurant.
My epicurean journey at the Vembanad began with a basket full of Kerala crisps along with some delicious tapioca crisps. These were served alongside yogurt-dipped fried chillies and fried bitter gourd. The savouries were followed by an energising sharbat.
Tanya Fontes with Executive Chef Krishna and Mohamed Basheer {Sales & Marketing Manager, The Paul Bangalore}
Kulukki Sarbathu
Easily spotted at the street side shops of Kerala, the Kulukki Sarbathu which translates into shaken juice was an instant hit. A recreation of the Soda Naranga Vellum, this sprightly drink had some flavourful additions like basil seeds, pieces of cherry, and chilli flakes {all the ingredients are poured into a tall glass which is covered by another glass, and then this desi drink is shaken like our usual cocktails are and served chilled}. One sip of this lovely sarbathu had my taste buds awakened with a sweet and tangy flavour mixed with hints of spiciness.
The Kulukki Sarbathu traces its routes to Kozhikode but owes its popularity to a street vendor named Shajji ~ whom the locals fondly called “Shajikka”.
The Paul Bangalore: Kerala Special Combos
Kozhi Pidi
{Rice dumplings cooked in spicy meat gravy}
I decided to start with the sumptuous Kozhi Pidi ~ a one-pot meal that is from the Malabar region of the state. This classic Kerala dish that rises in popularity during the Ramadan period, but is served all the year-round, is made of small rice dumplings {prepared by mixing rice powder, grated coconut, and onion-garlic paste} which are steamed before being simmered with tender pieces of chicken in a lip-smacking, semi-thick gravy. Mouthwatering delicious! {At Vembanad the pidi was served on the side with delectable Malabar chicken curry.}
Kappa and Meen Vattichathu
{Spicy fish curry served with Tapioca}
I still remember imagining the “Red-hot Kerala fish curry” which was articulately described by novelist Arundhati Roy in her Booker Prize-winning novel, God of Small Things. If you’ve read it, then you would know exactly what a spicy fish curry means in Kerala. The Meen Vathichathu is a dish native to the Syrian Christians of Kerala, and if I recollect what I was told correctly, then it is mainly those from Central Kerala who enjoy spicy fish curry with hot rice just about every day!
This dish derives its distinctive flavours from the earthen pot called manchatti in which it is cooked. This curry stays for days, its freshness retained merely by reheating the curry thus rendering the gravy thick, the flavours deep and the fish cooked tender. To my delight, Vembanad ensured that the same taste was recreated by starting the cooking process well in advance. The dish shone in its resplendence hinting at the generous use of red chilli powder. The flavours of coconut oil and the amazing aroma of the coconut leaves had me enjoying every bit of this delicacy. Steamed and mashed tapioca flavoured with turmeric and served with a spicy fish curry is certainly food to impress!
Beef Koorkka
{A peppery beef curry with the addition of these earthy bites (Koorka) or Chinese potatoes}
Koorkka is a popular root vegetable in Kerala, which also goes by the name of Chinese potato. Unlike the regular potato, this vegetable has a strong aromatic flavour of its own which makes it perfect for cooking as a standalone dish or to mix it along with other ingredients. While the most common avatar of the Koorkka is the stir-fry version, it can be prepared in many ways. At Vembanad, they were sautéed along with beef cubes in thick gravy. The creative use of Koorkka and the delectable taste of the beef made the dish highly pleasing to the palate.
The Paul Bangalore: Main Course
Ayala Mulakittathu
{A spicy rendition of the popular Kerala fish}
The Mackerel or Ayala served at Vembanad, is prepared in a marinade of red chilli paste and tamarind, giving the fish a spicy flavour. The attractive bright red colour of this dish is achieved with the use of Kashmiri chilli powder, which while lending colour does not make the dish too hot or spicy. I enjoyed this fishy feast with freshly prepared soft and delicious puttu.
Puttu
{Traditional Kerala steam cakes}
When we are at a place that brings Kerala on a plate for you, it is but obvious that I order the iconic puttu ~ a breakfast dish that is synonymous with Kerala. Cooked in a special vessel, puttu is steamed rice flour cakes layered with grated coconut. Delicious and healthy!
Varaal Varuthathu
{Pan fried fish}
The Varaal or Snake Head is a freshwater fish that is considered to be of the exotic variety, held in high esteem at many a dinner table in Kerala. At Vembanad, the Varaal was chopped into small medallions and fried in aromatic Kerala masala; resulting in a spicy, flavourful rendition. I bet there is nothing to beat the taste of fish prepared with kuttanadan flavour! Finger-licking delicious!
Maniputtu
{Rice Vermicelli cooked as a traditional rice cake with grated coconut}
Kerala’s fascination with coconuts doesn’t just end at the beaches and backwater lined with coconut trees; its cuisine is also intertwined with the use of coconut oil. This palaharam {snack} was rich with coconut, where rice flour and coconut complemented each other to make a delicious and filling dish.
Kappa Biryani with beef
{A Malabar delicacy of Beef and Kappa cooked in biryani masala}
Tapioca is simmered in a piquant beef masala and flavoured with roasted coconut to give you this deliciously authentic Kerala dish. The lovely deep reds and earthy browns of the dish quietly tell a tale of the flavourful spices and bold flavours of its preparation. For me, it was the kind of rustic, wholesome meal that food lovers the world over feel an affinity to.
The Paul Bangalore: Dessert
Needless to say, my extra-generous helpings of dessert were solely because I couldn’t keep myself from not savouring these delightful delicacies. Just when you think your meal has ended and you couldn’t possibly eat anymore, a tempting dessert menu is placed right in front of you!
Vatteppam
{Kerala’s Queen of steamed rice cakes}
A classic Kerala teatime snack, Vatteppam is prepared with a roasted combination of raw rice flower, grated coconut with yeast/toddy, and is sweetened with sugar and flavoured with the wonderful taste and aroma of cardamom. It can be made even more delectable with caramelised banana. I loved Vembanad’s soft melt-in-the-mouth version which was simply divine!
Kumbilappam
{Steamed banana and wheat flour or rice flour dumplings}
Kumbilappam is a savoury sweet prepared by cooking banana with rice flour and has a filling that generally varies, but is usually grated coconut and jaggery. Other versions of this dish include jackfruits and rose matta rice. This mixture is then wrapped and steamed in fresh green Bay leaves and shaped into cones {Kumbils}. The main tastemaker of this snack is Malabar cinnamon {elamangalam}, and bay leaves have a special flavour and aroma that makes this snack unique. All-in-all a delightfully delicious dessert!
To conclude: The exemplary flavours and aromas achieved with the perfect blend of spices made every delicious dish that I was served at Vembanad unique in essence, with a distinctive touch of Kerala. And, when you have polite and well-mannered staff who believe in sprightly services, there is hardly anything more that you need to garner the attention of food aficionados.
Address: The Paul, 139/28, Opposite Embassy Golf Links, Off Intermediate Ring Road, Domlur, Bangalore.
Timing: 12 Noon to 3 PM, 7 PM to 11 PM,
Disclaimer: This review was done on an invitation from the restaurant. Due judgment and care have been applied by the author to remain objective and unbiased in the review.