Explore Pune Like a Local
As I closed my books and wore my shoes to discover new places and distant lands, I realised no books or classroom lectures can give you the kind of education travelling does.
Pune with its history, museums, nearby hill forts that give a bird’s eye view of the surroundings; restaurants, nightlife, and large student population ~ is a city on the rise. A vibrant mix of the old and the new, capitalism and spiritualism; the city has been catapulted on the global map because of the famous Osho International Meditation Resort founded by the late guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh.
The local people or Puneris, as they are known, despite belonging to different religions, castes, and ethnicities, live in peace and harmony, and it is this attitude that weaves the entire fabric of the city and makes it beckoning and enchanting to all. This charming city once known for being a little more than an army outpost, has witnessed a distinct change in recent times which Vikram and I discovered courtesy of the wonderful team at the Conrad Pune who were hosting our stay in the city.
Whether on a business trip or visiting at leisure, here are a few spots that should not be missed. Are you ready to explore Pune like a local? My recommendations are on food, culture and historical things to do.
Arathi at our arrival at Conrad Pune.
Vohuman Café
Pune mornings are glorious ~ so kick start your day and breathe in the essence of the city with an early morning stroll that should leave you ravenously hungry. Then jot down those early memories of the city over a sweet hot chai with fried eggs and bun maska!
We start our early day at Vohuman Café {vohuman stands for ‘good thoughts’} ~ an iconic place and one of the oldest Irani joints in Pune ~ for a lip-smacking breakfast before we get on to traversing the city. A visit to one of these quaint Irani cafes is a must on every foodie’s list. And, I can vouch for the eggcellent and mouth-watering fare that is served here. Find your place at one of their cramped tables with heavy marble counter-tops and bentwood chairs and order away!
I am told that as a true Puneri, this is a favourite breakfast joint not only to enjoy the morning delicacies ~ omelette and cheese toast {their secret: a humongous chunk of cheese goes into every omelette, and a slab in every cheese toast}, or cream plate, a small saucer filled with buffalo cream ~ but also to soak in the old world charm and eclectic vibes of this cool city. Think about it; I was salivating at the memory of the menu at this modest café for weeks!
Now that breakfast is done, it’s time to head out and explore the city. Let me be your Pune travel guide for the day and together let us explore Pune like a local.
Shaniwar Wada
Pune is a historical city, and we start our sightseeing trip with Shaniwar Wada Palace, one of the most popular tourist destinations located in the heart of the city. This stately monument built-in 1732 was the seat of the Peshwas of the Maratha Empire; the architectural excellence of the golden Peshwa era and the glorious past of the city are clearly etched here.
Also known as the love nest of Bajirao and Mastani, the walls are painted with scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The fortification walls have five gateways {the Dilli gate, the Mastani gate, the Khidki Darwaza, the Ganpati gate and the Narayan gate}, and nine bastions that enclose the entire structure. The Ganpati Rang Mahal, {another prominent site that houses a giant statue of Lord Ganesha} was said to be the place for all religious functions of the Peshwas. A sixteen petal lotus-shaped fountain {Hazari Karanje} speaks about the artistic marvel of that era.
If you want to savour the true essence of Maratha culture, book yourselves a sound and light show in the evening with an integrating laser show, which is the main attraction of the place. With all the effects of light, music, narration, and ambience; you are bound to find it mesmerising!
Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum
Next on our agenda is the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum. The museum houses the collection of Dr. Dinkar G. Kelkar {1896–1990}, and is dedicated to the memory of his only son, Raja who died at the age of seven. Located on Bajirao Road, it gives us a peek into the history of Pune.
This three-story building with Rajasthani style architecture has over 20,000 rare exhibits and artefacts from different parts of the world dating back to the 14th century, out of which 2,500 are on display. All items on display are testimonies to the artistic brilliance and aesthetic qualities of the people of that period. The main attraction of the museum is a breathtaking replica of Mastani Mahal with its grandeur and artistic setting!
Maratha Samrat
The Maratha Samrat is another local favourite whose authentic Maharashtrian thalis offer eternal flavours.
What is easily detectable the moment you enter the place is that the staff is affable. Not only are their menu suggestions spot on, but the taste and quality of food make this place a true oasis for food lovers. From their chicken fry thali to their kaala mutton thali, every single one of their dishes will leave you craving for more!
Aga Khan Palace
Pune’s history is fascinating, and post-lunch we head out to explore Aga Khan Palace; a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi and his life.
The sprawling palace set in a wooded 6.5-hectare area across the Mula River in Yerwada was built by Sultan Muhammed Shah, Aga Khan III in 1892 and is known for its historical significance and dazzling art-deco glory. The grand building with its well-manicured lawns, Islamic architecture, Italian arches, and ornate interiors will leave visitors awestruck.
The standing monument which is said to have been built with an estimated budget of ₹ 1.2 million {US$18,000} and took five long years to complete, brings back memories of India’s freedom struggle. The palace houses several artefacts, and black & white pictures, and paintings from various epochs in the freedom movement that are associated with Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi. For history lovers, this palace is a must-see.
JJ Garden Vada Pav
An ardent shopper at heart, the tour of Pune city would have been incomplete without a shopping experience at MG Road. The rich textiles, exquisite handicrafts, and other items capture the nuances, sights, and sounds of a city where east meets west and is a haven for all shopaholics. The Walking Plaza is the answer to avoid the chaotic traffic of the area. Roads remain closed to all vehicles, and it is a scene of fete with fun galore; food stalls, unlimited shopping, and entertainment!
Oh, and a trip here is half-done without a visit to the legendary Garden Vada Pav stall at Butte Street in Camp. Started in 1972 by Kashinath Naiku and his mother Parvati, it is located just opposite JJ Garden. The vada pavs are tempting, filling, and served along with onion, chura, lemon, and green chutney! Looking to grab a light snack? This is the place.
Kayani Bakery
Deepa Chandiramani {Marketing and Communications Manager at Conrad Pune} and her colleague, tell me that Pune is a delicious smorgasbord of regional recipes {diverse and also mighty affordable} and a vibrant cultural scene. And, the one flavour that has stood the test of time is that of Kayani Bakery that has been rolling out fresh bakes since 1955.
A Raj-era institution, this iconic bakery is popular for its Shrewsbury biscuits {egg-less and preservative free}, nankhatai, khaari, and the wafting aroma of freshly baked sponge cakes that disappear from the shelves in the blink of an eye. As customers walk out of the bakery with a packet or two in hand, I notice a sign of contentment.
To conclude: From old traditions to heritage to culinary delights ~ Pune has a calming effect on your senses and your soul. With its ability to ignite curiosity, and charm everyone ~ Vikram and I embraced its remarkable diversity.
Thank you Team Conrad Pune for the fun and memorable tour!
While I enjoyed being a Pune travel guide to you ~ how would you rate your experience of exploring Pune like a local? Tell me in the comments below!